When the moon hits your eye like a big pizza pie…that’s a
PANE! Bells'll ring Ting-a-ling-a-ling, Ting-a-ling-a-ling…that’s a PANEEEEE! I sing
this song as I dance, twirling, through my kitchen. No, I have not fallen in
love with a boy named “Pane.” I am singing this song because I sing it every
time I make fresh bread – I become super excited while the bread is still in
the oven but almost ready, and I sing. Sounds crazy, but you do crazy things
when you’re in love. And I’m in love with delicious, crusty bread.
I
haven't always been this way. I didn't even know about fresh, crusty Italian
bread until I was 20 years old. I began on my bread path when I was a child and
fell in love with the typical Southern breads such as cornbread and biscuits. By
the way, to this day there is little I wouldn't do for a fresh, homemade
biscuit, served next to a veggie omelet or with some strawberry jam or honey. (If you all could please excuse me, I have to
take a moment to recompose myself after thinking about the deliciousness of the
homemade Georgia biscuit). Anyway, this post is not a post about biscuits,
so let's leave that to its own deserving post another day.
The
cuisine of the southeastern US doesn't reflect a great amount of Italian
influence; thus, it can be difficult to eat authentic Italian food, whether it
be from the supermarket or at restaurants. In addition, when I was little, my
Italian-American mom didn't make homemade bread because she was working full-time kicking
butt and taking names as a lawyer. Because of these two factors, the
tradition of crusty Italian bread was not present in my childhood world at home
or in restaurants. Any "crusty" bread that I had the opportunity to
eat was usually previously frozen, soft after being reheated, covered in butter
and garlic powder, served during spaghetti night at our house or with Olive
Garden's spaghetti and meatballs (fun
fact: this dish doesn't actually exist in Italian cuisine - it doesn't make
sense to match a chunky sauce with delicate, small noodles - the size of the
noodles always goes with the size of the sauce). I didn't know that this
bread would not be considered "delicious" in Italy. I ate it
voluntarily - there aren't many things that I don't eat voluntarily - but the
bread was never anything special. Then, when I was 20, I visited Italy for the
first time and everything changed.
The
year was 2006, and I was a student studying abroad at John Cabot University in
Trastevere, Rome. Before the fall of that year, I had never been outside of the
United States. Stepping out of the airplane for me was entering into another
world. I walked around the city for my first few days unable to shut my jaw...
I couldn't believe that these people lived there lives in another language,
walking around, living within 2000-year-old ruins e nun se ne po’ frega de
meno! (FYI: Roman dialect for they don't give a damn! - it's a super useful phrase in Italy, as
Italians usually don't...give a damn that is.) The first day in Rome was a blur of hunger and
exhaustion. I hadn't slept well on the airplane because I was so excited and
when we arrived in Italy, I didn't have time to grab a bite at the airport. My
first opportunity to go in search of food was mid-afternoon when we arrived at
our apartments. I remember vividly descending the spiral stairs of my new home,
and blindly turning right out of my building. What luck!, I thought,
A bread shop right next to my building! (At that point I was unaware of the
fact that it impossible to go 100 feet in Rome without finding some place to
eat or drink something.) I entered the building - scared to death of speaking
the language, but my hunger won over my fear and I asked for some bread. Quale
tipo? (What kind?), the woman answered me. There are kinds? I
thought to myself, and murmured, Ummm non lo so. Ho fame. Non ho ancora
mangiato pranzo (Ummm, I don't know. I haven't eaten lunch). The
woman smiled, and without asking me, prepared my lunch. Spero che a Lei piaccia
(I hope you like it), she said, passing me something wrapped in white
paper. Mille grazie, I thanked her, leaving the store. Once on the
street, I hastily opened the paper hiding a crusty roll with some sort of
spread. I took my first bite of bread and Nutella and died of happiness there
on the street. Luckily it was not a crowded street, and after having
resurrected from this death of joy, I gathered myself and reentered the bread
shop to thank the woman. Buono! Grazie - buono! Grazie – mille grazie – che
buono! I exclaimed, almost bursting from joy. In this moment, my love story
with bread had begun: it had me.
I
returned to the United States in January of 2007. There are bread stores here
that make very good bread, but not very many in Georgia or at Notre Dame, where
I was a student. And even if there were amazing bread places close to me, a
good loaf of bread here is costly, and as a poor student, I was desperate. I
began looking for a recipe that could resemble the bread I had eaten in Italy.
After three years of trial and error, I was finally able to find a recipe
that doesn't take much manual labor, but does need preparation a day in
advance. I hope to share it with any of you that might miss good crusty bread
or any of you that might want to try good crusty bread. Although it might not
be made in a forno al legno in Italy, my family and I think it does the
trick… and it goes great with Nutella.
I will
leave you all with my new motto, taken from my Piemontese origins: Ol pà l’istofa mai!! (One never gets tired of [good] bread!!)
Crusty Bread
1.5 cups warm water
1 tbsp yeast
pinch of salt sugar
3 or more cups of flour
1.5 cups warm water
1 tbsp yeast
pinch of salt sugar
3 or more cups of flour
Metal
pot with lid.
Mix flour, yeast, salt, and warm water in a large bowl (I usually use glass). The dough should be wet and sticky. Cover dough with plastic wrap and let rise for 18-22 hours (I have found that warm means somewhere between 74-85 degrees). After letting the bread rise for 18-22 hours, pour the dough out onto a floured surface. Dust the top with flour and shape into a flat “ball”. Cover again with plastic wrap and let rise for another two hours. During this time, preheat the oven to 450 and put the pot and lid into the oven. After the dough has risen for the second time, spray the pot with Pam and move the dough into the pot (this will not be easy but since the dough is so sticky and soft it will reform to the shape of the pot once cooking). Cook for 20-25 minutes with the lid on and 15-20 minutes with the lid off until the bread is the brownness and crustiness you desire.
Mix flour, yeast, salt, and warm water in a large bowl (I usually use glass). The dough should be wet and sticky. Cover dough with plastic wrap and let rise for 18-22 hours (I have found that warm means somewhere between 74-85 degrees). After letting the bread rise for 18-22 hours, pour the dough out onto a floured surface. Dust the top with flour and shape into a flat “ball”. Cover again with plastic wrap and let rise for another two hours. During this time, preheat the oven to 450 and put the pot and lid into the oven. After the dough has risen for the second time, spray the pot with Pam and move the dough into the pot (this will not be easy but since the dough is so sticky and soft it will reform to the shape of the pot once cooking). Cook for 20-25 minutes with the lid on and 15-20 minutes with the lid off until the bread is the brownness and crustiness you desire.
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